Wednesday, August 4, 2010

I'll be back

On my last full day in London (for now), I am reflecting a lot about how incredible this trip has been. I have walked in the places where kings and queens have lived for centuries, I have listened to the Big Ben chime at midnight, and I have watched as the sun set over the beautiful London skyline. I have seen the Mona Lisa, stood atop the Eiffel Tower, and sipped wine on the steps of Sacre Couer. I have heard the choir in St. Paul, and walked across the Tower Bridge, and witnessed Spanish fans cheer on their soccer team. I have studied art by Rembrandt and Jackson Pollock and Matisse and Monet and Seurat and Michelangelo and so many more. I have wandered the streets of Covent Garden, little Venice, Picadilly, Camden, Barbican, Windsor, Notting Hill, and Bath. I have strolled in Hyde Park, along the Thames, and up the Champs-Élysées. I have traveled by foot (mostly), tube, metro, bus, boat, and black cab. I have stayed out until sunrise (just once, Mom and Dad... don't worry). I have consumed a lot of cider and eaten a lot of fish 'n' chips. I have done it all with good new friends. I have literally had the time of my life.

In the midst of thinking about all this amazingness, I have a few final things to note about London:

1. The street sign set up here is horrible. Instead of the lovely visible pole and bright green sign situation that America has, London likes to put its signs on the sides of buildings and at mysterious intervals. This presents two challenges. First, how can drivers actually see the signs when they are so high up on buildings? They can't is the answer, and this, I'm sure, is part of what accounts for the terror of being a pedestrian in this city. It also says, don't drive here unless you know your way around. Second, due to the scarcity of street signs, I have walked down streets for many, many blocks without actually knowing where I was. I'll scan addresses of buildings and restaurants, study bus stops, looking for any indication that this street that I am walking on is actually Old Street or High Holborn or wherever.

This is over a story high... not helpful



Streets here are curvy and complicated in a way that no streets are in the more thoroughly planned cities of the United States. This is one of my favorite things about London... it adds character and lends itself to getting (literally, but mostly positively) lost in the city during a day of exploration. But given these complicated streets, would it really hurt London to learn from their friends across the pond and invest in a few readable and more accessible street signs?

2. The British drive the wrong way. I'm quite impressed with myself that I haven't been hit by a car on this trip, but I suppose I haven't left yet.

3. English girls do not have bachelorette parties before they get married. Oh no, they have something much better: hen parties. On any given night in heavy pub areas (aka almost everywhere in London), my friends and I watched as large groups of females walked by in matching outrageous and generally slutty outfits adorned with pink pageant-style sashes proclaiming their hen status. Often these hen party pub crawls included Mum and Mum-in-law-to-be, each of whom get their own special hen party sash noting their status (Mom? What do you think? You know you want to). Brits know how to have fun.

A typical hen party



4. Speaking of which, British drinking habits are in general much more sensible than those of Americans. In America, going to a bar after work means you're unhappy with your significant other and you're trying to drown your sorrows in one too many Jack and Cokes and hit on someone new. In England, after work drinks mean you're likely meeting up with your significant other and several other friends for one or two high quality beers or ciders before a late dinner. Whereas drinking often seems to be associated with sin and guilt and going a bit overboard in the United States, the sidewalks in front of pubs here are full of people drinking, smoking, and laughing at 5 PM. Overall, this seems to mean that the British drink more often, but they consume less alcohol over a longer period of time when they do drink, and they drink higher quality stuff than Americans do. This also means that pubs close at 11 PM in most cases because people start and end drinking earlier. That can present a bit of a challenge to American college kids unaccustomed to such a reasonable drinking schedule.

5. As cities go, London is really clean. The city not only provides "rubbish" bins all over the sidewalks (learn about it, Paris), it also often offers a recycling bin in the same spot. The tube, although it could run a bit faster, is cleaner than any subway system I've ever been on.

6. Perhaps, however, the tube is so clean because it's so expensive. Even with an Oyster card (a subway card), one ride in the cheapest zone costs one pound eighty. That's almost three dollars for a tube ride that may very well go slow enough to make walking close to as fast. The tube is great for longer distances, but for shorter ones, walking is infinitely better.

7. London doesn't feel as big as it is. The low skyline and spread out nature of the city, along with the friendly neighborhood pubs, shops, and grocers make it much less imposing than, say, New York City. The fact that the government regulates how many Londoners get licenses every year and that driving is extremely expensive means that there is not nearly as much traffic congestion as the average US city (I'm not sure if this regulation is good overall, but it's sure nice for me at the moment). In fact, as scary as the wrong way driving is for an American pedestrian, I don't think I've ever seen a traffic jam here. Walking traffic is probably worse than driving traffic, but only in touristy areas like Oxford Street and Parliament Street. These factors are the reasons that I could really live in this city.

8. If you like butter and salt, British food is not as bad as people say. Sure it's not healthy, but it's not bad.

And with that, I shift my focus to the future. That means one last night out in London (for now), and then back to Oregon and then to school. I need to sleep a lot, and get back to eating properly and doing a sit up or two and a run every once in a while, and get myself mentally ready for school. But I go back to the States a little more learned and a little stronger. I know that senior year will be challenging but incredible and magical, as are the endings of all great things. I'll miss London, but I know that I will be back.

Tuesday, August 3, 2010

Great Scot!

An important lesson that has been solidified for me here in London is the idea that many times, the best moments in life are those that are unexpected. Often, I have a plan for what I want to see and do during a day here (as well as back home), but the coolest part of my day ends up being the part that I stumble upon on the way to doing the thing that I planned. Case in point: yesterday, my friend and I planned to base our day around a trip to the Tower of London, then to the Globe Theater, then to the Covent Garden area. We did all those things, and they were really neat, but the best part of our day were the surprises.

First, on my walk from my dorm to the Tower, I planned to wander through the financial district of London in order to see the Royal Stock Exchange and the famous Lloyd's of London (this might not seem like what a 22 year old girl wants to do with her time, but I'm an economics major, so I think it's way exciting). I didn't realize how close other amazing buildings were to these landmarks, notably the Gherkin building, the site of an old synagogue (though not the original building), and the Leadenhall Market.

The Royal Stock Exchange



Lloyd's of London



The Gherkin Building



Synagogue!



The Leadenhall Market



Then, after meeting at the Tower Hill tube station, we happened upon this amazing Indian food restaurant near the Tower of London. It was far enough way to not be a tourist trap, making it quiet and filled only with businessmen from the nearby financial district. I had Lamb Kurma, and it was the best Indian food I've ever eaten. After lunch, we went to the Tower of London and then walked across the Tower Bridge, downs the Thames Path, and to the Globe Theater.

Being super huge tourists



The Jewel Tower (where the Crown Jewels are kept, but they won't allow pictures inside)



The White Tower (where a lot of prisoners were held and tortured)



George VIII's armor



The Globe (this is an early 1900's reproduction of what they think the Globe looked like, since the original was damaged by fire)



Finally, on our walk from the Globe to Covent Garden, we passed St. Paul's Cathedral. It's normally quite expensive to go inside, but we were passing just before their evening service. As a result, entry was free and we got to sit in on a short reading of a portion of Psalms and hear the choir sing. In terms of big churches--at least as far as the ones I've seen--St. Paul's wins. It is enormous and much brighter and more colorful than Notre Dam, Sainte Chapelle, or the Westminster Abbey. It literally takes your breath away for a moment.





The surprises continued today. My friend went to Bath with her family, but a couple of friends from LSE had no class because of midterms tomorrow, so I hung out with them. We headed to Whitehall Street, where a bunch of government buildings are located, and which is connected to Downing Street, home to the Prime Minister.

I was really excited to see 10 Downing Street, but as it turns out, visitors can barely see the building from the gates blocking Downing Street. Instead, I was really pleasantly surprised to find out that the Horse Guard just next door was about to perform the changing of the guard. Seeing this changing of the guard over the one at Buckingham Palace presented two major advantages. First, it is much less publicized and therefore less crowded. We had a front row view. Second, horses.

Outside the Horse Guard



The guards preparing to leave



The guards preparing to replace them



The old guards leaving



The new guards coming in



My day continued to be awesome with a trip to the Royal Mews. The Mews are the Buckingham Palace stables, and house not just many horses and much equipment, but display all the major carriages used by the Monarchy too. The biggest and coolest carriage is the Gold State Carriage. It's so large that the staff of the Mews has to dismantle walls over the course of two or three days to get it out of the Coach House. Why didn't they build the coach a bigger room with a bigger door? Not sure... silly British.

The arena of the Royal Mews



The Glass Carriage... both Diana and Queen Elizabeth rode in it to their weddings



The Gold State Coach



The Harness Room



Me with one of the Palace's famous Cleveland Bays



After visiting the Mews, we toured the State Rooms of the Buckingham Palace. As cool as these rooms were, the Palace was also overrun with tourists, and therefore made me feel panicky and drained by the end of the tour.

Being a super huge tourist AGAIN, outside the Palace



The backyard of the Palace, better known as the Buckingham Palace Gardens



The backside of the Palace



Tomorrow is my last full day in London. I plan to spend a good amount of time packing, but I plan to wander around my neighborhood a bit too, and finish the day off with dinner, drinks, and friends. Hopefully, I'll stumble upon something unexpected and wonderful.

Friday, July 30, 2010

Friday and the Weekend

On Friday, my friend from home, who is living in Paris this summer, arrived in London. Though she is staying at her aunt and uncle's house in Kensington, she and I have and will continue to hang out each day for the rest of my time in London.

On the first day of our adventures together, we began the day at the Camden Market. This market is a huge place with multiple components, including Camden Lock, Camden Town, Camden Stables Market, and Inverness Street Market. My friend and I walked through all the little stalls, ate crepes for lunch, and bought a couple of cheap novelty items.

The coolest market in Camden Market, because it's a former working stable turned into a market



After lunch, we moved my friend's stuff to her family's house and spent the evening in Notting Hill, right next to the Kensington area. This neighborhood is so beautiful and so cool. It looks like this:





I like the funky, brightly painted houses best. If I could live anywhere in London, it would be in a bright yellow flat in Notting Hill.

We walked to Portobello Road, which is famous for Portobello Market. When we arrived, the Market was just starting to close up for the day, but we still had time to wander through some of the stalls and into the little shops along the street. Portobello is much fancier than Camden... there is a tangible decrease in my fear of being pick pocketed in going from Camden to Portobello. We ate dinner at a Malaysian dive restaurant and got cupcakes at the London bakery Dragonfly Bakery.



On Saturday, we started off the day at Westminster Abbey. The Abbey is across the street from the Parliament Building, and is therefore the center of tourist pandemonium on a Saturday in the summer. Unlike a lot of historical sites and museums in London, the Abbey also charges a pretty hefty entrance fee. Even considering both those factors though, the Abbey was well worth the trip. Like the Notre Dam, the Abbey has incredible floors, ceilings, and stained glass. Unlike Notre Dam, the Abbey also has a whole series of small chapels on the edges of the main sanctuary, and each one is designed differently and intricately, usually with the tomb of some important British person inside, like Henry VII and Queen Elizabeth I.

Speaking of tombs, the Abbey houses a whole lot of them. In addition to the big tombs in the chapels, there are tons of people buried beneath the floors of the Abbey, including many British political figures, but also including people like Charles Dickens, William Wordsworth, Chaucer, Charles Darwin, and others. Many famous funerals have been held there too (and coronations and weddings), including Princess Diana's, which I watched on TV as a little kid, and which had previously supplied all my knowledge regarding the Abbey.

Pictures are not allowed inside the Abbey, but here are some from the Internet...

The main sanctuary



The Lady Chapel, probably the biggest chapel and my favorite because of its intricate, almost lace-like ceilings



Me outside the Abbey... it was a rainy London morning



After fully exploring the Abbey, my friend and I found lunch and then set off for Tate Britain. This museum was fairly small but offered a large variety of art by British artists. Like Tate Modern, it had a good selection of printmaking, which I loved because of my printmaking focus in my art minor.

An etching of London by JMW Turner



It also had modern art like this famous piece by Piet Mondrian, who was Dutch but who worked in England



Even though I love the prints in the Tate Britain, I discovered that my new favorite artist is a painter... John Singer Sargent paints so beautifully and so romantically

"Carnation, Lily, Lily Rose"



"Study of Madame Gautreau"



Once finished looking through the Tate, my friend and I headed back to the Holborn area so that she could see the British Museum briefly. This constituted my third visit to the British Museum, but I still stumbled upon a lot that I hadn't seen before, like an exhibit on money (interesting after my Monetary Theory course last semester) and these cool old clocks...



We ended our day with dinner and a couple of ciders with friends from LSE near my old dorm.

On Sunday, my friend and I started off at Speaker's Corner in Hyde Park. Speaker's Corner is famous for allowing crazy people to exploit their soap box rights on Sunday mornings, and large crowds come out to watch them rant about the end of the world.

Cooky bananas





Hyde Park is very, very large and is home to many other neat things. There are tons of paths to walk along and fields to lay out in or play "footie" in. The park hosts lots of concerts, the first being a Rolling Stones concert in the sixties and the most recent that I know of being a Jay-Z concert a couple of weekends ago (wiiiish I had gone). There is a pond in the center of the park, on the other side of which is Kensington Gardens, home to Kensington Palace, which I visited on my very first night in London. Of particular interest to me are the pony riding lessons conducted in the park on weekends.

I would've been one of these girls had I lived in London at age eight



Hyde Park is also home to Marble Arch... not as cool as the Arc du Triumph, but still neat



After walking through Hyde Park, my friend and I took advantage of her aunt's membership passes at the Natural History Museum. Admission to the general exhibits are free, but a few special exhibits require payment or a membership pass. In this case, the Museum had a really cool butterfly exhibit that we got to see for free.

Some swans and me at the Natural History Museum



Dinosaurs



Butterflies!





We ended our day with a trip to Warwick Avenue. Most people outside of London haven't heard of this place because it isn't really famous. I wanted to go because one of my favorite musicians, Welsh singer Duffy, has a song named after the street. The whole song and music video are centered around the Warwick Avenue tube station.

Me at the Warwick Avenue tube station



Duffy at the Warwick Avenue tube station

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HhZ5-L9znt8

On my walk home, after my friend took the tube back to her aunt and uncle's house, I stopped at a patisserie whose desserts I'd been eying all week. I enjoyed an amazing slice of strawberry cheesecake, deciding I'd make a small late dinner in a couple hours. These sort of decisions may result in a few more hours at the gym when I get back to the States, but for now, I say, Life's short... eat dessert first.

Thursday, July 29, 2010

The Variety of Wal-Mart and the Quality of Saks

Today I spent almost the entire day in Harrods department store. Harrods makes every department store I've ever been to look like Ross Dress for Less. Everything was beautiful. The sales people were friendly and helpful, even though it was clear I wasn't actually going to purchase any Dolce and Gabbana dresses or Cartier jewelry.

The world's biggest department store takes up an entire city block and is seven stories, and it's big for a reason. It boasts multiple gift shop areas, designer clothing, bags, and shoes, makeup, jewelry, hats, electronics, stationary, sports equipment, toys, restaurants, food halls, a florist, a pet shop with live animals, furniture, fine china, cigars, and so much more. Did you know that Hermes makes furniture? Why do they do that? Oh, because Harrods is awesome. There is even a Harrods bank and a Harrods real estate office. If you wanted to buy a car or, say... an elephant, from Harrods, they'd probably figure it out for you. I'll put it this way: any department store that hands out guides to help customers navigate the store is probably pretty awesome.



Ah yes... every escalator area definitely requires a mural on the ceiling



PETA would have a lot of fake blood to throw in this room



Oscar de la Renta is one of the best designers EVER



Hats!



A classic Chanel suit



Of course it's necessary to have a Veuve Clicquot bar inside the store



The Food Halls are yummy... I had a lamb pasty for lunch (a savory pasty like the one I had is like a mix between a pot pie and a cal zone)



The Harrods Toy Kingdom



I will come back to Harrods one day... one day when I have enough money to buy things there, besides food and small gifts. But even if and when that times comes, I hope that I always view trips to places like Harrods as special. What I mean is, I hope that I one day have enough to be comfortable, but not to be extravagant, and that I always appreciate what I have, and that I spend it on things that matter, like on my children and on others, and only sometimes at places like this. I hope that I always recognize that places like Harrods are a little bit ridiculous.

As I was leaving Harrods, I watched as a family climbed into their driver-driven, custom-made Land Rover, the doors opened for them by a Harrods doorman. I smiled as I walked into the tube station, more excited about my time in London than about any of the stuff I left behind in the store. The things inside Harrods are beautiful, but so much--adventures, and being here, and discovering how to be on my own in this big place--is so much better.