Wednesday, August 4, 2010

I'll be back

On my last full day in London (for now), I am reflecting a lot about how incredible this trip has been. I have walked in the places where kings and queens have lived for centuries, I have listened to the Big Ben chime at midnight, and I have watched as the sun set over the beautiful London skyline. I have seen the Mona Lisa, stood atop the Eiffel Tower, and sipped wine on the steps of Sacre Couer. I have heard the choir in St. Paul, and walked across the Tower Bridge, and witnessed Spanish fans cheer on their soccer team. I have studied art by Rembrandt and Jackson Pollock and Matisse and Monet and Seurat and Michelangelo and so many more. I have wandered the streets of Covent Garden, little Venice, Picadilly, Camden, Barbican, Windsor, Notting Hill, and Bath. I have strolled in Hyde Park, along the Thames, and up the Champs-Élysées. I have traveled by foot (mostly), tube, metro, bus, boat, and black cab. I have stayed out until sunrise (just once, Mom and Dad... don't worry). I have consumed a lot of cider and eaten a lot of fish 'n' chips. I have done it all with good new friends. I have literally had the time of my life.

In the midst of thinking about all this amazingness, I have a few final things to note about London:

1. The street sign set up here is horrible. Instead of the lovely visible pole and bright green sign situation that America has, London likes to put its signs on the sides of buildings and at mysterious intervals. This presents two challenges. First, how can drivers actually see the signs when they are so high up on buildings? They can't is the answer, and this, I'm sure, is part of what accounts for the terror of being a pedestrian in this city. It also says, don't drive here unless you know your way around. Second, due to the scarcity of street signs, I have walked down streets for many, many blocks without actually knowing where I was. I'll scan addresses of buildings and restaurants, study bus stops, looking for any indication that this street that I am walking on is actually Old Street or High Holborn or wherever.

This is over a story high... not helpful



Streets here are curvy and complicated in a way that no streets are in the more thoroughly planned cities of the United States. This is one of my favorite things about London... it adds character and lends itself to getting (literally, but mostly positively) lost in the city during a day of exploration. But given these complicated streets, would it really hurt London to learn from their friends across the pond and invest in a few readable and more accessible street signs?

2. The British drive the wrong way. I'm quite impressed with myself that I haven't been hit by a car on this trip, but I suppose I haven't left yet.

3. English girls do not have bachelorette parties before they get married. Oh no, they have something much better: hen parties. On any given night in heavy pub areas (aka almost everywhere in London), my friends and I watched as large groups of females walked by in matching outrageous and generally slutty outfits adorned with pink pageant-style sashes proclaiming their hen status. Often these hen party pub crawls included Mum and Mum-in-law-to-be, each of whom get their own special hen party sash noting their status (Mom? What do you think? You know you want to). Brits know how to have fun.

A typical hen party



4. Speaking of which, British drinking habits are in general much more sensible than those of Americans. In America, going to a bar after work means you're unhappy with your significant other and you're trying to drown your sorrows in one too many Jack and Cokes and hit on someone new. In England, after work drinks mean you're likely meeting up with your significant other and several other friends for one or two high quality beers or ciders before a late dinner. Whereas drinking often seems to be associated with sin and guilt and going a bit overboard in the United States, the sidewalks in front of pubs here are full of people drinking, smoking, and laughing at 5 PM. Overall, this seems to mean that the British drink more often, but they consume less alcohol over a longer period of time when they do drink, and they drink higher quality stuff than Americans do. This also means that pubs close at 11 PM in most cases because people start and end drinking earlier. That can present a bit of a challenge to American college kids unaccustomed to such a reasonable drinking schedule.

5. As cities go, London is really clean. The city not only provides "rubbish" bins all over the sidewalks (learn about it, Paris), it also often offers a recycling bin in the same spot. The tube, although it could run a bit faster, is cleaner than any subway system I've ever been on.

6. Perhaps, however, the tube is so clean because it's so expensive. Even with an Oyster card (a subway card), one ride in the cheapest zone costs one pound eighty. That's almost three dollars for a tube ride that may very well go slow enough to make walking close to as fast. The tube is great for longer distances, but for shorter ones, walking is infinitely better.

7. London doesn't feel as big as it is. The low skyline and spread out nature of the city, along with the friendly neighborhood pubs, shops, and grocers make it much less imposing than, say, New York City. The fact that the government regulates how many Londoners get licenses every year and that driving is extremely expensive means that there is not nearly as much traffic congestion as the average US city (I'm not sure if this regulation is good overall, but it's sure nice for me at the moment). In fact, as scary as the wrong way driving is for an American pedestrian, I don't think I've ever seen a traffic jam here. Walking traffic is probably worse than driving traffic, but only in touristy areas like Oxford Street and Parliament Street. These factors are the reasons that I could really live in this city.

8. If you like butter and salt, British food is not as bad as people say. Sure it's not healthy, but it's not bad.

And with that, I shift my focus to the future. That means one last night out in London (for now), and then back to Oregon and then to school. I need to sleep a lot, and get back to eating properly and doing a sit up or two and a run every once in a while, and get myself mentally ready for school. But I go back to the States a little more learned and a little stronger. I know that senior year will be challenging but incredible and magical, as are the endings of all great things. I'll miss London, but I know that I will be back.

Tuesday, August 3, 2010

Great Scot!

An important lesson that has been solidified for me here in London is the idea that many times, the best moments in life are those that are unexpected. Often, I have a plan for what I want to see and do during a day here (as well as back home), but the coolest part of my day ends up being the part that I stumble upon on the way to doing the thing that I planned. Case in point: yesterday, my friend and I planned to base our day around a trip to the Tower of London, then to the Globe Theater, then to the Covent Garden area. We did all those things, and they were really neat, but the best part of our day were the surprises.

First, on my walk from my dorm to the Tower, I planned to wander through the financial district of London in order to see the Royal Stock Exchange and the famous Lloyd's of London (this might not seem like what a 22 year old girl wants to do with her time, but I'm an economics major, so I think it's way exciting). I didn't realize how close other amazing buildings were to these landmarks, notably the Gherkin building, the site of an old synagogue (though not the original building), and the Leadenhall Market.

The Royal Stock Exchange



Lloyd's of London



The Gherkin Building



Synagogue!



The Leadenhall Market



Then, after meeting at the Tower Hill tube station, we happened upon this amazing Indian food restaurant near the Tower of London. It was far enough way to not be a tourist trap, making it quiet and filled only with businessmen from the nearby financial district. I had Lamb Kurma, and it was the best Indian food I've ever eaten. After lunch, we went to the Tower of London and then walked across the Tower Bridge, downs the Thames Path, and to the Globe Theater.

Being super huge tourists



The Jewel Tower (where the Crown Jewels are kept, but they won't allow pictures inside)



The White Tower (where a lot of prisoners were held and tortured)



George VIII's armor



The Globe (this is an early 1900's reproduction of what they think the Globe looked like, since the original was damaged by fire)



Finally, on our walk from the Globe to Covent Garden, we passed St. Paul's Cathedral. It's normally quite expensive to go inside, but we were passing just before their evening service. As a result, entry was free and we got to sit in on a short reading of a portion of Psalms and hear the choir sing. In terms of big churches--at least as far as the ones I've seen--St. Paul's wins. It is enormous and much brighter and more colorful than Notre Dam, Sainte Chapelle, or the Westminster Abbey. It literally takes your breath away for a moment.





The surprises continued today. My friend went to Bath with her family, but a couple of friends from LSE had no class because of midterms tomorrow, so I hung out with them. We headed to Whitehall Street, where a bunch of government buildings are located, and which is connected to Downing Street, home to the Prime Minister.

I was really excited to see 10 Downing Street, but as it turns out, visitors can barely see the building from the gates blocking Downing Street. Instead, I was really pleasantly surprised to find out that the Horse Guard just next door was about to perform the changing of the guard. Seeing this changing of the guard over the one at Buckingham Palace presented two major advantages. First, it is much less publicized and therefore less crowded. We had a front row view. Second, horses.

Outside the Horse Guard



The guards preparing to leave



The guards preparing to replace them



The old guards leaving



The new guards coming in



My day continued to be awesome with a trip to the Royal Mews. The Mews are the Buckingham Palace stables, and house not just many horses and much equipment, but display all the major carriages used by the Monarchy too. The biggest and coolest carriage is the Gold State Carriage. It's so large that the staff of the Mews has to dismantle walls over the course of two or three days to get it out of the Coach House. Why didn't they build the coach a bigger room with a bigger door? Not sure... silly British.

The arena of the Royal Mews



The Glass Carriage... both Diana and Queen Elizabeth rode in it to their weddings



The Gold State Coach



The Harness Room



Me with one of the Palace's famous Cleveland Bays



After visiting the Mews, we toured the State Rooms of the Buckingham Palace. As cool as these rooms were, the Palace was also overrun with tourists, and therefore made me feel panicky and drained by the end of the tour.

Being a super huge tourist AGAIN, outside the Palace



The backyard of the Palace, better known as the Buckingham Palace Gardens



The backside of the Palace



Tomorrow is my last full day in London. I plan to spend a good amount of time packing, but I plan to wander around my neighborhood a bit too, and finish the day off with dinner, drinks, and friends. Hopefully, I'll stumble upon something unexpected and wonderful.